My friend has 1G/1G Internet. I have a rsync cron job backing up there 2 times a week.

It has a 8TB NVMe drive that I use bulk data backup and a 2TB os drive for VM stuff.

I use it for alt text for photos. Mostly because I just don’t know how to describe my images.

I use adguard home in conjunction with NextDNS.

I find adguard a little better in the UI department. Have it in a docker container so it’s a set and forget.

Yeah there’s no foolproof way to do a general upgrade. Wiping is the easiest way to bypass the tpm requirement.

If you absolutely must use windows

Download the Pro ISO from windows.

Use MicroWin to create an iso without tpm requirements and with offline installation

Use MAS and use only the Enterprise edition. You might need to upgrade to Professional first.

Then use WindowsDebloater to tailor it to your liking.

I can play zero dawn on mine and boy did it make train rides tolerable.

RouterOS has WG built in as well as ZeroTier. RouterOS has become quite powerful lately, but make sure you have at least an ARM/ARM64 CPU for it.

All of my remote routers are running RouterOS without anything on top of it. RouterOS is powerful enough for anything I throw on it. But I am using much beefier routers, I have 2 x 5009 and a HAP AX3 which have plenty of flash and ram ro run the additional packages I need.

As for normal computers, I have it on a UPS and I backup core files to off-site areas. Additionally, I buy SSDs that have a little bit of powerloss protection.

I’ve never had issues with mini PCs but I’ve had issues with PIs. I’ve since switched to high endurance SD cards for my Pis and they’ve been rock solid. One’s actually semi exposed to the elements for about a year now without a hiccup.

With RouterOS you can still use DoH with either a self hosted list or a selected ad list. If you want to selfhost a DNS server I’d just host a Adguard Home instance on a VPS for all of your devices.

I also have 2 VPN system for my remote management on 2 separate systems. I learned that the hard way when one of my clients is 8 timezones away.

My ISP blocks all outgoing ports. Maybe I’m not trying hard enough but anything I try port forwarding ends up getting blocked.

Minecraft and port 80 are the 2 I’ve tried and they’ve been unresponsive

A lot are moving through software defined networking which runs at RAM speeds.

But typically responsiveness is quite important in a virtualized environment.

InfiniBand could run theoretically at 2400gbps which is 300GB/s.

I’m using the rb5009 but im using RouterOS not openwrt. Any reason why you’d want to do that?

I personally think if you’re buying a purpose built hardware and then putting your own software on it, you should move to a mini computer with OpnSense.

I’m switching my immich instance to an SSD one and switching my VPN from zerotier to tailscale.

Hopefully that means my Immich will be a little more reactive.

No with the latest ISO from windows 24H2 I believe

You can still skip it with MicroWin and also Rufus. I’ve tested it just recently.

Strangely enough I’ve had the opposite.

My pcie 4.0x4 drive was giving me about 200MB/s on windows and when I plugged it into a Linux machine, full drive speed.

Not flashdrive cheap, but I just use cheap 256gb sata M.2 drives and a tool less enclosure.

Runs at sata speeds and are cheap. Plus the enclosure supports NVMe so I could run around with a 8TB stick.

Don’t password managers verify the domain name before offering credentials?

Does that mean he doesn’t use a password manager?

Edit: RIP, now that’s a proper phishing. I understand where he’s coming from

Stopping down doesn’t always give you sharper images. You may run into diffraction softening.

Focusing and then stopping down may shift your focal plane. Try to focus at your chosen aperture.

Try to use the electronic shutter function for astro photography. Even the shutter moving across the sensor can cause vibrations.

The 500 rule is useful for astro, but with modern higher resolution sensors, the NPF rule is better suited.

Not getting amazing astro shots? You may need to modify or buy a camera that is sensitive to Hα (Hydrogen-alpha) removing the infrared/IR filter off your camera will allow you to shoot full spectrum. Although you will need something to only allow 450 to 520nm and from 640 to 690nm into your sensor.

Sensors will always have dead or stuck pixels. You can take 10-20 black frames to try to help your image processor find and erase them.

Optical vignetting is common when you shoot wide open. Stop down 2-3 stops from your max aperture to try and remove the effect.

Shooting expired film is fine, just make sure you over expose 1 stop per decade it’s expired. So a 20 year old film, shoot 2 stops over exposed.

Same url as mine

https://lemmy.doesnotexist.club/pictrs/image/44f99f51-2ae9-49b0-b0c8-4ae4cb989690.png

I just wish pebble was still a thing. I miss my pebble time 2.